Fodor’s has an engaging Q&A with chef Marcus Samuelsson of New York City’s Aquavit. Born in Ethiopia and raised in Sweden, he’s used his world-class cooking credentials and cross-cultural cred to mount a nation-hopping culinary tour of Africa.
In addition to his work at Aquavit, Samuelsson owns two other NYC restaurants: the AQ Cafe and the Japanese-American fusion spot Riingo. (The latter is a reference to an apple, not the least essential Beatle.)
Though the piece is in service of pimping his (rather interesting looking) new book, it covers some interesting ground, exploring the best Ethiopian restaurants in New York, why Cape Town is on par with San Francisco or Stockholm, and the origins of Africa’s sophisticated and hugely varied cooking styles:
In South Africa, you have fiery sambals that were brought by the Malay slaves who created Cape Malay cuisine. In Morocco, you see Arab influence in the spice blends, olives and preserved lemons. And in West Africa, I was surprised to find people using French-style condiments like mayonnaise and mustard.
As it goes in journalism and foreign affairs, so it goes in food writing: Africa is one of the most neglected yet sprawlingly diverse and important topics out there. It’s nice to see Fodor’s at least scratch the surface.