New York expat Mr. Taster has been on a frustrating quest for N.Y.-style egg rolls that has led him to… Genghis Cohen. He wants to point out that a lot of places commonly recommended for N.Y. egg rolls don’t cut the mustard.
At the Canto-American Paul’s Kitchen, wonton soup is fantastic, with flavorful chunks of juicy BBQ pork, crunchy bok choy, meaty wontons and a flavorful broth boosted by MSG. Egg rolls, though, are actually spring rolls (a thin, flaky exterior rather than thick, brown, chewy skin blistered from frying) and filled with bland cabbage.
Canton Kitchen’s egg roll has a nicely crispy exterior, deep brown and bubbly, but the crispiness yields to a doughy underlayer that’s undercooked. And inside is a mass of meat spiked with bits of cabbage that’s more like a pork meatball. No dice.
Genghis Cohen, which is apparently run by a Chinese woman from New York, does the trick. The crispy-chewy skin, fried golden brown, and filling of shredded pork, cabbage, and mini shrimp are dead on. It’s still not the most flavorful filling around, but fortunately the egg rolls come with the “proper” condiments of sinus-blasting mustard and sweet and sour duck sauce.
Paul’s Kitchen [Downtown]
1012 S. San Pedro St., at 9th, Los Angeles
Canton Kitchen [Culver City-ish]
12511 Venice Blvd., Los Angeles