Lively, authentic Korean flavors turn up all the time in the K-towns of Queens and Manhattan. In Park Slope, Brooklyn, not so much. But Moim, which promises Korean cooking with "a contemporary spin," came through nicely for Miss Needle, a Chowhound who scored awesome kimchi pork mandoo that outshone the ones at more traditional restaurants. The filling was ample and well seasoned—no dipping sauce necessary. Dolsot bibim bap, the mixed rice dish served in a hot stone bowl, arrived at the table sizzling, and the kimchi was spicier than that at most Korean places.
In some other dishes, though, the seasoning's dialed down, and the menu's "modern Korean" offerings can disappoint: Bulgogi tacos and pork-kimchi buns were marred by overly sweet fillings. So don't expect a restaurant like those on Flushing's Northern Boulevard, where heavily Korean crowds find authentic chow in loud, smoky rooms. At Moim, portions are smaller and the complimentary banchan less numerous. On the other hand, the food is fresh and prepared with care, and the serene, stylish dining room appears to have been put together with the eye of a graphic designer—which it was, actually. Chef-owner Saeri Yoo Park began writing her second act nearly 15 years ago, ditching design for cooking, working on the line at restaurants such as Spice Market and Café Gray, and finally opening her own place in 2007.
Even after seven years, Moim flies somewhat below the radar, but 'hounds say it deserves a try. Miss Needle advises Brooklynites who'd rather not trek to Queens to "adjust your expectations from traditional Korean restaurants. You can eat well if you order carefully."
Moim [Park Slope]
206 Garfield Place (near Seventh Avenue), Brooklyn
Photo of Moim's dolsot bibim bap by Mark Hokoda