Before DB Wine Bar came along in summer, Forest Hills had nothing like it. So the place quickly got the attention of neighborhood hounds, who have taken to its clean and modern look, reasonably priced wines, and thoughtfully conceived menu of Mediterranean-ish small plates.
Early hits include polenta sandwiches, risotto cakes, chicken cooked under a brick, and well put-together cured meat and cheese plates (recent winning choices include a French blue, Humboldt Fog chevre, and ripe, earthy Brie). “A promising addition to the decidedly unambitious dining scene of Forest Hills,” says DaveS, who enjoyed a 2003 Chateau de Pez, fairly priced at $52. The kitchen has kinks to work out. Grilled calamari, well seasoned and done to a turn one night, can be overcooked the next. Serrano ham croquettes might be just fine or unpleasantly gooey inside.
DB Wine Bar replaces Dee’s Brick Oven Pizza, which has moved a few blocks down Metropolitan.
DB Wine Bar and Kitchen [Forest Hills]
formerly Dee’s Brick Oven Pizza
104-02 Metropolitan Ave., at 71st Dr., Forest Hills, Queens
Dee’s Brick Oven Pizza [Forest Hills]
107-23 Metropolitan Ave., between Ascan and 74th Aves., Forest Hills, Queens