Milk Washing: The 300-Year-Old Technique For Extra Frothy Cocktails
Presidential history buffs out there know Benjamin Franklin's fondness for alcohol. Besides being the author of one of the earliest American manuals on winemaking, he's also the writer of a drinking song that (humorously) extolled the virtue of drinking wine over water. But while his love for wine was legendary, the Founding Father also enjoyed a cocktail from time to time, too.
In a letter from 1763 preserved by the Massachusetts Historical Society, Franklin shared a recipe for a milk punch — a concoction of brandy, milk, and lemon juice flavored with nutmeg and sugar. More interesting than its association with the Founding Father is that this technique makes use of a rare cocktail-making technique called "milk washing."
Milk washing, or milk clarification, is an age-old method involving the mixture of milk together with strong alcohol and citrus juice, which will cause it to curdle. The curds are then filtered out, resulting in a drink with a clear appearance despite the milk going in, almost like the milk has been washed off. Originally, this technique was used to soften harsh flavors in low-quality spirits and prolong the shelf life of milk-based drinks. Today, it's primarily employed for historical intrigue or to impart a smoother texture to cocktails, without the unwanted odors associated with additives like aquafaba or egg whites. And if you're a fan of shaken drinks, it can make your tipple much frothier, too!
How exactly does milk-washing work?
To create a milk-washed or clarified cocktail, you'll need just three ingredients: milk, a spirit, and an acid. First, mix the milk and spirit. Then, introduce the acid — usually citrus juice — which triggers the milk solids to form into casein curds and whey proteins. These solids will float atop the liquid, resembling white goo with a yogurt-like consistency. Filter out all the curds using a coffee filter or cheesecloth, leaving behind a clear liquid that tastes incredibly smooth.
The reason behind this smoothness lies in the milk proteins that bind to bitter compounds in spirits. By removing them, much of the bitterness dissipates, which is why this method was so popular back in the olden days to salvage rough-tasting or poor-quality liquors.
An added perk of milk washing is its ability to impart a silky, foamy texture to the drink. Some whey protein remains unfiltered, enhancing the smoothness when sipped neat. But if you decide to shake the cocktail, it creates a beautiful foam layer on top — no need to layer the drink with egg foam.
Great milk-washed recipes to try
If you're interested in trying your hand at milk-washing cocktails at home, there are a few popular recipes to get you started. One of the simplest is Benjamin Franklin's 300-year-old milk punch. All you'll need is some whole milk, brandy, lemon juice, and a touch of nutmeg and sugar for flavor. Since it's straightforward and the ingredients are budget-friendly, it's an excellent recipe for beginners to dip their toes into this technique.
For those seeking more complexity, consider a paloma milk punch. Instead of traditional dairy milk, you can use coconut milk and grapefruit juice to wash your blanco tequila for a smooth finish on this classic cocktail. To enrich the flavor profile, you can add herbal tea, chile liqueur, or a blend of Chinese five spices (anise, cinnamon, clove, cardamom, and Sichuan peppercorn), resulting in a refreshing, herbaceous finish.
All in all, there are plenty of tasty milk punches out there that you can add to your repertoire if you fancy the technique. It can take a bit of practice getting the milk-to-cocktail ratio right or getting fluent in the curdling and filtering steps. But with some practice and experimentation, you'll be crafting frothy, flavorful milk-washed cocktails like a pro in no time!