Large, heavy-duty, and easy to clean. This is a roaster that cooks well both in the oven and on the rangetop.
Placement of the handles on the roasting rack is awkward.
Not the cheapest roaster on the shelf, but if you want a roomy, heavy-duty pan that won’t buckle in the oven, the Viking is not a bad investment.
With Thanksgiving a page-flip away on the calendar, things are starting to get real. Those doubled-up foil roasting pans you bought at Target last year for the turkey? They didn’t cut it then and they won’t cut it this year. Time to buy a real roasting pan, but given the cost of a decent one, you need to be reasonably sure about the one you buy before handing over your debit card. Enter Viking. Yes, that Viking, the range company with a reputation for designing pro-grade equipment scaled for home kitchens. You love your Viking six-burner gas cooktop; could you love a heavy-duty, Viking-branded roasting pan just as much? To find out, we bought and tested the company’s Stainless Steel Roasting Pan with Nonstick Rack.
Viking’s Stainless Steel Roasting Pan is 16 inches long, 13 inches wide, and 5 inches high (including the handles), so it’s well suited for that 25-pound Thanksgiving turkey. Of the three roasters we tested this season (others were by All-Clad and KitchenAid), the Viking weighed in second heaviest: 6 pounds 11 ounces without the roasting rack, just over 9 pounds with. The construction is three-ply, 18/10 stainless steel (same as the All-Clad) and aluminum. The pan’s floor is completely flat—no wells around the perimeter to catch roasting juices and fat. The included V-shaped nonstick rack looks and feels identical to the one that comes with the All-Clad roaster. You can use the Viking roaster over all kinds of burners: halogen and induction, as well as gas and electric (ceramic cooktops are fine). Viking recommends hand-washing with a nonabrasive detergent and a nonscratchy sponge, though the pan’s technically dishwasher-safe (like all polished stainless, it will eventually dull in the machine). It’s oven-safe up to 640 degrees Fahrenheit and comes with a lifetime warranty against factory defects. It’s manufactured in Indonesia.
To test the Viking’s chops, we cooked two holiday roasts: a feast-size turkey on a bed of stuffing, and a pork loin with apples. Then we made a 15-cup batch of caramel corn, mixing and baking it in the Viking roaster.
Roasted turkey: We butterflied our bird for this test, splitting it down the back and opening it up flat to roast evenly, on top of stuffing and without the rack. The Viking roaster had plenty of room for our opened-up turkey. And once the bird was done, we liked how well the pan went under the broiler to finish crisping our stuffing.
Pork loin: We started with a 4-1/2-pound pork loin, cooked without the rack, surrounded by apple wedges (roasting temp: 450 degrees Fahrenheit to start, later lowered to 375). Big thumbs-up for the heavy-duty quality of the Viking roaster—even under high heat, it didn’t buckle in the oven. When the pork was cooked, we removed it and the apples from the pan and poured off the roasting juices (we liked how the roaster’s flared sides made this part easy). Then we placed the roaster over a gas burner, deglazed with Calvados, and made a pan sauce. We liked how the Viking’s flat bottom made deglazing a breeze, no stubborn wells to have to deal with.
Caramel corn: Our recipe calls for spreading out 15 cups of caramel-coated corn in a pan and baking till crunchy. We liked how the Viking handled the volume here, and it cooked evenly over a gas burner, with no scorched caramel from hot spots. Once we were finished, the Viking was easy to hand-wash, even the sticky caramel.
General stuff: Overall, the Viking roaster performed well both in the oven and on the rangetop. It was easy to take in and out of the oven, even though the placement of the roasting rack handles (at 45 degrees from the pan’s handles) could make it awkward to lift a hot roast. But we love that this pan is completely flat on the bottom, a boon for deglazing and scraping up browned bits when making pan sauces. This roaster’s a keeper.
Photos by Chris Rochelle