Traditional in Middle Eastern cooking, the spice sumac brings a clean, tart, lemony flavor and a deep rose color to this chicken recipe. Start by sautéing the onions until brown, stir in the parsley and garlic, and toss with the bread. Roast the sumac-rubbed chicken on top of the bread mixture, and then, when the chicken is finished, transfer the toasted bread to a serving bowl and toss it with fresh cucumber and tomato for a panzanella-like to serve with the chicken.
What to buy: Armenian or Persian cucumbers, if you can find them, are delicious in this salad and, like Kirbys, don’t need to be peeled or seeded. If neither is available, your basic cucumber will be fine—just peel and seed it before slicing. Ripe summer tomatoes are ideal. If you’re making this out of season, substitute Roma or halved cherry tomatoes, which usually have some semblance of flavor in winter.
You can find ground sumac in Middle Eastern markets or by mail from Kalustyan’s.
Game plan: If you can, start the dish in the morning so that the seasoned chicken can rest for several hours before roasting.
Using the palm of your hand, press down on the chicken to flatten it.
Season both sides generously with salt and pepper. Combine the sumac and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a small bowl and rub the mixture all over both sides of the chicken. Transfer the chicken to a large plate or dish and refrigerate it uncovered for about 8 hours. (If you haven’t planned ahead, just leave the seasoned chicken on the counter while you prepare the onions and bread.)Beverage pairing: Bodegas Dos Victorias José Pariente Verdejo, Rueda, Spain. The bright, lemony flavor of sumac along with the lemon and garlic ask for a fruit-forward wine, but it needs a little weight for the chicken and bread. Verdejo from Rueda is just such a grape, with the sweetest flavors of Sauvignon Blanc but without the herbaceousness and with more body.