At Flour + Water restaurant in San Francisco, Chef Thomas McNaughton makes exquisite pasta dishes from carefully made doughs. Here’s his recipe for northern Italian–style ravioli dough (he calls it rav dough), made with Italian “00” flour and whole eggs in addition to egg yolks and extra-virgin olive oil. If you have a kitchen scale, all the better: Precise measuring will yield pasta that’s lithe, silken, and properly firm, perfect for ravioli, tortelloni (pictured above), and other filled shapes. As every nonna knows, practice makes perfect. This is a recipe you’ll probably have to make more than once to get exactly right. Use this dough for Pumpkin Tortelloni with Sage and Pumpkin Seeds, also from Flour + Water. And check out our behind-the-scenes visit to McNaughton’s test kitchen.
What to buy: Italian “00” flour is not a type of wheat but refers to the fineness of the grind in the milling process (“00” is super fine). It contains only the endosperm, and is almost always milled from soft wheat. The Antimo Caputo brand is available online.
Step 2: Kneading
Step 3: Resting
Step 4: Rolling
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