Porcini Fried Rice with Balsamic Spring Onions, Ramps, and Porcini Aioli
State Bird Provisions
Stuart Brioza & Nicole Krasinski with JJ Goode
This porcini fried rice from San Francisco’s State Bird Provisions’ cookbook (nominated for a 2018 James Beard Foundation Book Award) may look a bit involved, but nearly all of the component parts can be prepared ahead of time, and will make enough for other dishes too. The fried rice itself is earthy, crispy in spots, tender in others, and full of delicious porcini mushrooms, which show up sautéed, blended into a luscious porcini aioli, in a dry porcini spice powder, and sliced raw as one of the finishing touches, along with balsamic-and-thyme-glazed ramps and spring onions. For more elegant and satisfying dishes from State Bird Provisions, get their Black Butter-Balsamic Figs with Basil and Fontina Fondue recipe and Quinoa Tabbouleh with Marinated Tuna, Shiitakes, and Bonito-Rosemary Aioli recipe.
Really can’t get enough porcini mushrooms? Then try our Pot Roast with Porcini and Beer recipe, and our Tomato-Porcini Sauce recipe too.
For the Porcini Aioli:
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into several pieces
- 1 small shallot, thinly sliced
- 1 medium garlic clove, smashed and peeled
- 8 ounces fresh porcini mushrooms, including stems, cleaned and thinly sliced
- kosher salt
- freshly ground black pepper
- 4 tablespoons water
- 1 large egg yolk
- 1 1/2 teaspoons sherry vinegar, or as needed
- 1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
- 1 dash Tabasco sauce
- 1/4 teaspoon Porcini Spice Powder (recipe follows; optional)
- 1 cup grapeseed oil
For the Porcini Spice Powder:
- 2 ounces dried porcini mushrooms
- 4 allspice berries
- 8 white peppercorns
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 3/4 teaspoons granulated sugar
For the State Bird Dashi:
- 1 ounce kombu (Japanese dried kelp), snipped into pieces
- 1 1/2-inch knob ginger, peeled and smashed
- 2 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
- 2 strips Meyer lemon peel (each about 3 by 1 inch), white pith removed
- 1 small rosemary sprig
- 4 cups water
- 2 1/2 cups katsuobushi (Japanese bonito flakes)
For the fried rice:
- 1 cup short-grain white rice
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 red spring onion bulbs (about 1 inch thick), greens trimmed and bulbs cut through root end into 8 wedges
- 6 large ramps, bulbs halved lengthwise, greens reserved
- 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
- 10 turns freshly ground black pepper
- 8 thyme sprigs
- 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
- 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons State Bird Dashi
- 1 teaspoon shiro shoyu (white soy sauce, such as Yamashin brand)
- 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
- 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil
- 4 ounces fresh porcini mushrooms, including stems, cleaned and thinly sliced, plus several very thin slices
- generous sprinkle of kosher salt
- 1 tablespoon porcini aioli
- 1 tablespoon Parmesan, finely grated (on a Microplane)
- generous pinch Porcini Spice Powder
- small handful of sunflower sprouts or pea shoots
Make the porcini spice powder, if using:
1In a small food processor or spice grinder, pulse or grind the mushrooms to a fine powder, occasionally stopping to stir if necessary.
2Put the allspice in a mortar and pound to a fine powder. Add the peppercorns and pound to a fine powder. Add the salt and sugar and pound to a fine powder. Add the porcini powder and stir well.
3Transfer to an airtight container and store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 month.
Make the porcini aioli:
1Combine the butter, shallot, and garlic in a medium sauté pan. Set over high heat and let the butter melt and froth, swirling occasionally. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring and scraping often, until the shallot is translucent, about 2 minutes.
2Add the mushrooms and 1/2 tsp salt to the pan, season with pepper, and stir well. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are cooked through, about 2 minutes. Pour in 2 Tbsp of the water, let the liquid come to a boil, then stir and scrape the pan until the liquid glazes the pan, about 30 seconds. Immediately transfer the pan’s contents to a baking sheet and spread out to help cool quickly to room temperature.
3Scrape every last bit of the mushroom mixture into a food processor. Add the egg yolk, vinegar, mustard, Tabasco, porcini spice powder (if using), 1 tsp salt, and remaining 2 Tbsp water. Process to a very coarse puree. With the processor running, add the grapeseed oil in a thin, steady stream. Scrape the sides of the processor and process for another 5 seconds or so. Season with additional salt, pepper, and vinegar.
4Transfer to an airtight container and store in the fridge for up to 3 days.
Make the State Bird dashi:
1Combine the kombu, ginger, garlic, lemon peel, rosemary, and water in a small pot. Set over medium-low heat and warm until small bubbles begin to rise from the bottom but before they break the surface of the liquid, 10 to 12 minutes. Turn off the heat.
2Sprinkle in the katsuobushi and, if necessary, gently stir with a wooden spoon so it’s completely saturated. Let steep for 10 minutes, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve, lightly pressing on the solids. Discard the solids.
3Transfer to an airtight container and store in the fridge for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Make the rice:
1The day before you plan to serve the fried rice, put the rice in a large mixing bowl and add enough water to cover by 1 inch. Use your hands to stir the rice, then empty the water, fill the bowl again, and repeat the process until the fresh water looks clear after stirring, about three times. Drain the rice well in a fine-mesh sieve, letting it sit in the sieve for about 10 minutes.
2Combine the rinsed rice and 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp water in a rice cooker and cook according to the manufacturer’s directions. When the rice is cooked, use a spoon to fluff it in the rice cooker, allowing steam to escape. Transfer the rice to a small baking sheet, spread it out in a thin, even layer, and let cool. Store, uncovered, in the fridge overnight. If the rice dries out now, it will end up fluffier and less clumpy later.
Fry the rice:
1Warm the olive oil in a sauté pan over high heat until you see wisps of smoke. Add the onions and ramp bulbs to the pan, sprinkle with the salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions color and soften slightly, about 2 minutes. Add the thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden brown in spots, another 2 minutes. Add the balsamic vinegar and let it bubble, stirring occasionally, just until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 2 minutes more. Set aside until ready to use, or let cool and store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 4 days.
2In a small bowl, stir together the dashi, shiro shoyu, and sherry vinegar. Set aside.
3Warm 1 Tbsp of the grapeseed oil in a large heavy skillet over high heat until you see wisps of smoke. Add the 4 ounces porcinis, sprinkle with ½ tsp salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the porcinis soften and just begin to brown, about 2 minutes.
4Add the rice and remaining 2 Tbsp grapeseed oil, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp salt, and stir everything together, breaking up any clumps of rice. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is heated through, fluffy, and slightly crispy in spots, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the ramp greens, stir well, and cook just until they wilt, about 30 seconds.
5Add about half of the dashi mixture, stir well, and cook for 30 seconds more. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the remaining dashi mixture. Season with salt.
6Transfer the fried rice to a serving dish. Top with a few of the onions and ramp bulbs, reserving the rest for another purpose. Add the aioli in a few dollops. Sprinkle with the Parmesan, porcini powder, sprouts, and the very thinly sliced porcini. Serve right away.
Reprinted with permission from State Bird Provisions: A Cookbook by Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski with JJ Goode, copyright © 2017. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC. Photography credit: Ed Anderson © 2017
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