1Place a large stewing chicken in enough cold water to cover, and simmer for 1 hour, skimming as necessary. Add 1 large unpeeled onion studded with 4 whole cloves, 1 large carrot, and 2 outer stalks of celery. Simmer 1 hour more. Add 1/4 cup lovage leaves and half a lemon. Continue to cook until the chicken is soft enough to come away from the bones, about 30 minutes longer.
2Strain the broth, discarding the solids. Add the cut kernels from 12 ears of young white corn; the “milk” obtained by scraping the cobs; 1/2 teaspoon crumbled saffron; 1 pound of chicken breast, cut into small dice; and 2 cups egg noodles. Cook 3 to 4 minutes or until the chicken is opaque and the noodles are tender.
3Stir in a small handful of light-colored celery leaves, 2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.
Beverage pairing: Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay Rosé, France. It would be typical to put a white wine with chicken soup, but we like the contrast created by adding a little red to the equation. Hence a light rosé, like this one made from Pinot Noir in the northern section of Burgundy, which complements the soup with some acidic zip, but offsets it with some bright berry notes.