Creamed spinach can be clunky, rich with so much cream and butter the spinach itself is an afterthought. This recipe is different. You end up with a delicious mound of lightly cooked spinach enhanced—not weighed down—by a relatively modest amount of cream. Start by reducing cream while infusing it with a subtle hit of onion. Separately, wilt the spinach, drain off the excess liquid, then add the reduced cream, season, and serve.