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Warm leeks napped on smoky bacon cream with the crack of nuts in their bite is one of the first things I start craving when I sniff the air, suddenly frost edged, and know that autumn is striding through, with winter barking at her heels. Now this is one of those recipes that should never be corseted by recipe form, because leeks come in all sizes, and this means that you may need more or less bacon, more or fewer nuts, plus or minus a glug or two of cream. So toy with the amounts; they’re not absolute. To help with your planning: In the case of baby leeks, estimate two to three per person; with medium narrow leeks, as I indicate below, one per person is fine; and if you should find yourself facing leeks of thuglike thickness, peel off a few outer layers to narrow them down, and then halve lengthwise once cooked, planning one-half per person.