We spent two weeks dining out in New Orleans this month, missing a few nights when Hurricane Barry caused closures, and New Orleans has diversity to celebrate. I have a conflict of interest with Marjie's Grill, and my relishing the place must therefore be discounted. Gianna's was extraordinary on all fronts (taste, creativity, ambiance, and service), starting with eggplant caponata, roasted mushrooms, and tuna stuffed peppers; proceeding to the Italian chopped salad (too much dressing for my wife, but flavor galore for me); phenomenal pasta, especially the baked lasagnetta and the tummala of rice, complemented by polenta and grilled focaccia. First-rate wine list. Herbsaint remains one of our favorite places, going there for lunch and tasting imaginative salads or veggie dishes, along with the rest. Blown away by Jewel of the South, whether sweetbreads or a type of mince cake with Stilton or a tomato (not quite season yet) salad accompanied with tomato water in a celery-salted glass, with lots of other choice choices. Cocktails are simply the best. Zasu was very special: grilled baby octopus, artichoke and cheese agnolotti, watermelon and tomato gazpacho, short ribs, carpaccio, mushrooms, perogies, and ice cream were lovely, as is the space and service. Bywater American Bistro had the most exciting menu, and we feasted on the best overall charcuterie plate in my five decades of adult dining, a farro risotto that surprised with flavor and texture, and one dish after another (four dining) of delight. Finally (reporting just on our favorites, a few clinkers were only good), Costera was so tasty, fresh, true to Spanish focus, unafraid of manageable heat, and creative that we will certainly return. Lots of oysters at different places were, of course, consumed, with char-grilled being most enjoyable this trip.

I looked online at Bar Hiroo's menu, bao-centered with both sweet and savory; saw favorable early comments on a not-to-be-mentioned site, and so will try next time in LA. What's so charming about the mentions of Raku is that my wife and I learned about Raku while talking with Chef at Bar Charlie, which we adored unconditionally. Each of his dishes told a story and was unique, flavorful, and as near perfection as I've found outside of The French Laundry and Le Bernardin. Raku in Vegas and LA are far less ambitious but excel at what they do. Living in the Bay Area for the past few years so Chef Hiroo's impact on Chairman Bao food trucks has been much appreciated as well as a special dinner pop-up several years ago.

Last month we hosted 13 for lunch at the Lotus of Siam on Flamingo. We could not have been better served. Check though to see whether the wine permit has been issued. We didn't know ahead, and a local liquor store in a nearby strip mall did its best, but the Lotus dry whites are phenomenal. Three years ago we had 18 for dinner, this time at the Sahara location. Again, could not have been better served. Both times, no prearranged, strictly from the menu, though we ordered the food for everyone.

Having just made our January reservation for Le Cirque, I am truly mystified as well, largely because Frederick, the usual sommelier, has for a decade or so been extraordinary in his pairings, deeply knowledgeable according to my one-year CIA drop-out and food critic boss, and remarkably courteous. I have, however, seen him rushed when the restaurant is full and he is trying to please everyone. In that context, though, whatever you want is what he means, rather than flippant, it is generous. We'll see what happens in January.