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JustCharlie(Charles)

  • Manhattan
  • Member since 2014
  • Total posts 15
  • Total comments 1,333

LCB, Paris 1984 Le Chantecler, La Côte d'Or, Le Petit Nice, Les Apotres de Pigalle, Restaurant Le Cinq, Boutary, Maison Pic, amongst others. From Sunflower, MS also the home of Craig Claiborne.

JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

People insist on carmelizing meats for stews in the stew pot itself. This is what causes most staining. Sear in a pan (they're made for the job), cook aromatics, deglaze, and then transfer the whole kit-n-caboodle to your faitout for braising.

The dark interior of the Staub is not a disadvantage. You don't need to look at the bottom to see if the fond is burned since the vessel should never be used for this task in the first place. Otherwise, a dark pan bottom is a distinct advantage when searing or browning since you can't see if you've burned the fond. One runs the obvious risk of deglazing and eating burned and bitter material if it is difficult to see it against a dark pan's background.

In short, don't use your faitout in lieu of a sautoir/sauteuse. Sear meat, cook aromatics, deglaze, then xfer it all to a faitout to finish the braise.

People insist on carmelizing meats for stews in the stew pot itself. This is what causes most staining. Sear in a pan (they're made for the job), cook aromatics, deglaze, and then transfer the whole kit-n-caboodle to your faitout for braising.

The dark interior of the Staub is not a disadvan...

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Never put tin anything in the dishwasher. Wash with mild dish soap and a soft sponge or cloth.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

IMO, cast iron does not hold a candle to the pans you have. Glad you got the thinner pan, heat change is a little more supple.

Too much mass can work against the cook rather than for him.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Glass works fine and is certainly readily available just about anywhere. That said, keep these sorts of containers in the back of your mind if you decide you need more:

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/3099/...

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Fair enough. I re-read my post and I think I came on a little too strong.

I ported my minimal use of glass from my background in restaurant settings.

Use what you enjoy using,

Cheers,

Charles

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Surely, you're not suggesting using an array of Pyrex brand glass measuring cups for all of one's mise en place needs.. are you?

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Somebody mentioned the appearance of dry areas and the need for re-seasoning after cooking certain things.

I assume there is no mystery where the stuff went - the stuff that came up that left the dry spot, the old oil with the iron mixed in. It's in the food. Blech.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

I suppose that's true. One's that don't sell should be offered to the food service department of non-profit hospitals or some other worthy charity that has a food service component.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

As you use any cast iron product you'll find that the list of foods that you can't cook on it or in it, or cooking processes that you can't do on it or in it are much longer than the things it can actually be used for.

There are many more vegetable and fruits other than tomatoes that will strip the seasoning from one of these pans. They make everything taste like liquid Geritol, iron-ie as hell. The seasoning situation is always an accident waiting to happen. Well, other than for cornbread. Cast iron is good for cornbread.

As you use any cast iron product you'll find that the list of foods that you can't cook on it or in it, or cooking processes that you can't do on it or in it are much longer than the things it can actually be used for.

There are many more vegetable and fruits other than tomatoes that will stri...

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Haven't tried it but it is gorgeous. I've got a stable of Matfer Bourgeat black steel pans already. I'm sold on the material - steel instead of cast iron (don't get me started) so right off the bat I like the company you've linked to.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Get an end-grain maple board as big and heavy as you can afford. If it's too tall, mark the legs whilst the unit is on a level surface and saw them off to suit.

Everything else is an also-ran. Do not, under any circumstances, be talked into buying a long-grain oriented board in any species.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

If ever there were a pan somebody could do without it's this one. A serious chef might, and I stress might, need one nonstick omelet pan but it's likely to be smaller than 12" and it will have one, long handle that sure as Hades doesn't get hot.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

As a general rule, glass is problematic in a busy kitchen. One goes bang, you've got dinner party guests seated at a beautiful table, you can't account for every shard of glass. Ethical dilemma comes to mind.

Get the heavy stainless. I'd go with the German stuff.

Because mise en place separates serious home cooks from the pikers, you practically can't have too many prep bowls regardless of assertions otherwise.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Get an 8" or 10" chef's knife that costs no more than $40, a ten or fifteen buck paring knife, and a butcher knife. You won't cook very well without learning how to fabricate meat.

Here's what you need right here:

http://stores.butchersupplycompany.co...

The Fibrox handles on the Victorinox knives don't get nearly as slippery as a lot of knives. They're a good value.

When you get into fabricating meat you'll appreciate the range of different types of boning knives, and even a skinning knife, offered in the Victorinox line.

Please consider shopping for gear from restaurant and butcher supply houses.

Get an 8" or 10" chef's knife that costs no more than $40, a ten or fifteen buck paring knife, and a butcher knife. You won't cook very well without learning how to fabricate meat.

Here's what you need right here:

http://stores.butchersupplycompany.co...

The Fibrox handles...

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

That's a good and important sign. All of the 'brand talk' only proves one thing - that the marketing campaigns work well.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Sure, that's fine. I'm not sure what exactly is being recycled (I don't believe that the blemished pans have actually been used before) but if it somehow makes one feel more 'green' to buy factory-blemished goods then more power to them.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

If you had to have that particular brand then seconds make all the sense in the world, price-point wise. Otherwise, the prices being asked are ridiculous for what you get and beyond absurd when compared to Vollrath.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Aluminum, of course, is the 'good stuff' The stainless serves a function but the more aluminum the better.

The brands available through Sur La Table, MetroKitchen, etc. are all perfectly serviceable and decent cookware. You just don't see pros using much, if any, of that stuff and a lot of outfits could easily afford it. Vollrath, et al. are their brands of choice not necessarily just a low-cost expediency.

As you've discovered, they're just bloody damned good pans. At any price.
.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Thanks Duffy. People would be smart to consider at least some of the restaurant supply lines. If you like tri-ply, nothing beats the Vollrath pan I linked to. These guys know that restaurants are not going to pay the prices amateurs are willing to pay for the same pan (probably a lesser pan if the truth were known). I've worked in several restaurants, a couple with stars, and I have literally never seen one, single article of All-Clad in any one of them, while Vollrath was virtually ubiquitous. Take it for what it's worth, maybe not much.

Most of what you're buying with All-Clad is their huge marketing and advertising campaigns, store displays, etc.

Thanks Duffy. People would be smart to consider at least some of the restaurant supply lines. If you like tri-ply, nothing beats the Vollrath pan I linked to. These guys know that restaurants are not going to pay the prices amateurs are willing to pay for the same pan (probably a lesser pan if...

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

8" chef's knife. I've taken to using a $15 supermarket-grade el Cheap that my wife bought at Schnuck's. It has a rubber handle inset into a full metal bolster/handle. It has decent feel in the hand. It's stainless steel and I've been able to get a decent edge on it. All stainless steel is a compromise in a knife. It just does not get as sharp as high-carbon steel.

I have a drawer full of Wusthoff knives but let me tell you that if your hands are a little wet or oily the handles are really, really slick. I think the stainless is better on the Wusthoffs. They'll hold an edge a little longer but I'm constantly refreshing edges anyway. Moral of the story-- find something COMFORTABLE and that DOES NOT GET SLICK when your hands are wet and or a little oily. You should be touching up frequently so edge longevity is a little bit oversold IMO.

8" chef's knife. I've taken to using a $15 supermarket-grade el Cheap that my wife bought at Schnuck's. It has a rubber handle inset into a full metal bolster/handle. It has decent feel in the hand. It's stainless steel and I've been able to get a decent edge on it. All stainless steel is a ...

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Fry potatoes in the pan and then discard them. She's good to go after that.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

Well, it's a shame that you take flak since I think you're exactly right.

I have an All-Clade sauté pan that has worse hot spots than Revere Ware. If there's is any separation at all, even almost unnoticeable , I believe the space gets superheated and causes the problem. I may be wrong on the physics but I've had two chicken breasts in a properly heated pan (slowly and evenly) and had one produce perfect fond and one burn underneath. Both hit the pan at the same time and I was cooking on a very high-quality HOB at the time. And, I think I know how to cook. Same dish on tinned copper -- perfect fond anywhere the product is placed in the pan.

It made a believer out of me....

Well, it's a shame that you take flak since I think you're exactly right.

I have an All-Clade sauté pan that has worse hot spots than Revere Ware. If there's is any separation at all, even almost unnoticeable , I believe the space gets superheated and causes the problem. I may be wrong on th...

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

IMO, tinned copper is still the standard by which all other cookware is measured. You won't get the best performance from equipment that attempts to marry disparate materials with copper, like stainless steel and other 'sandwiched' materials.

Try one piece, maybe a small(ish) sauté pan in tinned copper, and I bet you'll be a believer.

 
JustCharlie
JustCharlie commented 8 years ago

I have pretty severe arthritis in my hands and I do use lighter pans from time to time. You can mallet the bow out of these pans by putting a kitchen towel on the bump and malleting with a rubber mallet. Go slowly. If you go too far, just do the same thing from the other side. Lay a kitchen towel down on your workbench (or chopping block) first. So, you'll need two kitchen towels for this.

The key to keeping thin, stainless steel pans flat (think Revere Ware) is to heat them slowly and let them cool down before washing them.

You can cook with thin pans - complicated sauces, the works. Get a cast iron flame tamer and the most delicate sauces are do-able. You get most of the benefits of a heavy saucepan without the weight.

Cast iron is not particularly supple with regard to heat exchange. Once you've got food cooking in the pan, frankly a thinner pan can sometimes save a dish - maybe you overcrowded things a bit and the food starts steaming, that sort of thing. With food in the pan, you can crank the heat on a thin pan with no worries.

I have pretty severe arthritis in my hands and I do use lighter pans from time to time. You can mallet the bow out of these pans by putting a kitchen towel on the bump and malleting with a rubber mallet. Go slowly. If you go too far, just do the same thing from the other side. Lay a kitchen t...