Concur w/ high marks for the Zuni
But I would have amended the review in two ways.
That over-dressed Caesar is not an aberration. This is an instance in which what Bauer got is what everyone gets, his wandering gaze to the other tables, where he imagines he sees salads that aren't swimming in dressing, notwithstanding.
Maybe the over-dressing's being called out in the Chron will cause the kitchen to re-jigger (given the late Judy Rogers' storied perfectionism, this one has always been a puzzle--my half-serious association is to those Amish quilts, where the quilters intentionally make a mistake on one square, because only God is perfect).
And I shake my head at the part about the Zuni's having always been ahead of the curve and so still modern/of the moment. Is Bauer so caught up in the restaurant race that he can't articulate more simply that what's special is that it's excellent and not trying to be trendy? The reason I love the Zuni (along with the chicken...) is that it feels un-self-conscious--which is surely the hardest thing: to be great in an un-show-y way.