Thanks to the recommendation of danmarano on this page I tried out Zuid Zeeland, and it is indeed a fine restaurant of international caliber. I had the lunch special, which started with a glass cup of creamy mussel soup (just in season), followed by grilled duck and goose liver pate. The main course was a platter with four types of fish/seafood prepared in different styles - skate, pike perch, sea bass and langoustine, served variously with braised celery, crisp snow peas, leeks, a very nice salad and a small heap of thin pasta. In total around 30 euro, which I believe is the same as the dinnertime price. The dining room is posher than average for Amsterdam, with contemporary art on the walls and a huge flower arrangement in the center of the room.
Moko, a trendy canal-side "Asian fusion" joint recommended in the NY Times, was less impressive. Mediocre "dim sum" served with a Thai-style sweet sauce, ordinary satay, overcooked and unexciting grilled tuna (served with avocado and salsa that must have seemed exotic to someone). Everything was accompanied by fried potatoes with mayonnaise for some reason. An OK cheap wine list and a bustling crowd, but don't go for the food.