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Restaurants & Bars 2

Yuuki on Sawtelle

Leslie Brenner | Jan 9, 200201:24 AM

Sometimes I feel like eating old-fashioned California-Japanese food--as in the kind of restaurants my parents used to bring us to when we were kids in the early 70s. That's what I felt like last night, and we wound up at Yuuki, which we had tried once before for lunch. It's in the space that was O-Sho for a million years, and it looks as though the new owners (who opened it last year) didn't change one formica-grain of the decor. The owner, in fact, is the chef; the server explained to us that he really wanted to keep prices down, which he couldn't do if he hired a chef. He does just fine with really simple fare. Sit down and a little petri dish of pickled cabbage (remember that?) lands in front of you, along with another of pretty little pillow of silky garlic-and-scallion-topped tofu, and edamame for the table. Dishes are of the tempura, teriyaki, sukiyaki variety, and the prices are right:$9 for combinations of two, served with miso soup and iceberg salad. Nothing amazing, mind you, but soothing and adequate, and the waitstaff couldn't be nicer. BYOB.

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