I'm surprised nobody has mentioned Cha Chan Tang on Mott St. since scoopG covered the place year before last. From what I can tell it's the busiest and most popular restaurant currently in New York Chinatown. Granted it's a Hong Kong style cafe, and perhaps Hong Kong cafe food doesn't rate as high up on the chow scale as other genre. But they have an entire section on the menu devoted to "Yunnan Vermicelli in Fish Broth" with a dozen different varieties listed. The fish broth is absolutely fantastic, and in my opinion, Yunnan noodles might be the best choice for Chinese soup noodles. But if you don't like Yunnan rice noodles, you can substitute any of three other noodle types, giving 48 potential combinations. Cha Chan Tang is at 45 Mott St.