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New Yorker review of cook books

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New Yorker review of cook books

Eric Eto | Sep 20, 2001 03:33 PM

Has anyone else caught this book review/article? The main point seems to be that the recent culinary renaissance of the last couple decades rests on something other than technique -- which is defined as French technique. After a quick read on the subway home last night, I thought the article was very even handed and did a good job of historical coverage of the culinary scene from Fanny Farmer, Joy of Cooking, Julia Child to the CIA, Elizabeth David to Alice Waters, Soulé to Thomas Keller, and to Cook's Illustrated, just to mention a few subjects.

I'm apt to agree with the assessment that contemporary chefs have abandoned "grande cuisine" to a more refined, or "lighter" version -- some for good, many for worse. The evidence being that most current chefs would be lost doing the extensive job of a saucier, for instance. Missing from the article, however, was any mention of the fusion of western and other culinary traditions and techniques. I could go on, but I'm curious to know how others read it.

Link: http://www.newyorker.com/THE_CRITICS/...

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