+
Restaurants & Bars

[Woodford, Greater Manchester] Oliver's

Harters | Sep 8, 201502:13 PM     1

Over the years, I’ve driven past Oliver’s loads of times without giving it a thought. I suppose it may be because it’s never cropped up on the local foody websites. Anyway, the other week I came across it while Googling for something else, took a look at the menu (typical Modern Brit affair) and thought it worth a punt.

I like the room – quite modern, tables not crammed together, comfy seats. There’s one of those menus, where it starts off looking like a bargain fixed price affair but then you spot that about half of the items carry a supplement. So, to eat at the level of £21.95 for three courses, your choices are limited but, without particularly trying to, that’s what I ordered. My partner ordered differently with starters and mains both carrying a fair old bit extra.

She started with a scallop and pancetta dish. Scallops were properly cooked; pancetta was crisp. They sat in a pleasant, if nondescript, creamy sauce. Alongside, in the bowl, some rocket leaves which just sat there, getting slightly soggy, serving no real purpose. That was followed by a decent ribeye – classic accompaniments of salad, chips and roasted tomatoes.

Over on the bargain basement side of the table, there was a soufflé to start – Garstang Blue and pistachio. It was OK, if underseasoned and with little of the zing you’d expect from that northwestern cheese. The main course baked salmon was really good – just a nice hint of being undercooked in the centre; crisp skin. That sat on a seafood risotto – although when I say “seafood”, I mean there were a few mussels stirred through. Risotto was much better than many you come across which are, all too often, made so thick so they can be cheffed about with in a ring mould.

Desserts were a game of two halves. Ginger bread and pistachio pudding was lovely. It came with a butterscotch sauce and ice cream. Just the sort of dessert to remind you summer is ending and autumn is beginning. Chocolate and hazelnut tart was no better than OK – pastry wasn’t crisp, filling was fine – rich chocolate, not overly sweet and a crunch from the nuts, but a bit Polyfilla in consistency. .

In summary, we’d been reasonably well fed for the money but if the question was “do we need another Modern Brit bistro on our list”, then the answer is “no”.

Want to stay up to date with this post? Sign Up Now ›
Mojo Magic: The Best Cuban Pork (& Cubano Sandwiches) You'll Ever Eat
How To

Mojo Magic: The Best Cuban Pork (& Cubano Sandwiches) You'll Ever Eat

by Arturo Rojas | A great Cubano depends on great pork, and this Cuban pork recipe is just as perfect on its own as...

Liven Up Your Labor Day Veggie Tray with These Unique Dips
Recipe Round-Ups

Liven Up Your Labor Day Veggie Tray with These Unique Dips

by Jen Wheeler | There is absolutely nothing wrong with hummus, guacamole, or even a good store-bought dip (looking...

15 Make-Ahead Labor Day Recipes from Dips to Dessert
Recipe Round-Ups

15 Make-Ahead Labor Day Recipes from Dips to Dessert

by Chowhound Editors | Make-ahead Labor Day recipes ensure that you get to enjoy the party along with everyone else—and that...

15 Labor Day Party Tips to Maximize Fun & Minimize Stress
Entertaining

15 Labor Day Party Tips to Maximize Fun & Minimize Stress

by Jody Eddy | Labor Day is the holiday that brings the long hot days of summer to a close. Say farewell to the season...

Trending Discussions

2

Bread Spread

Updated 1 day ago 8 comments
4

Counterintuitive Pleasures

Updated 4 hours ago 26 comments

Get fresh food news delivered to your inbox

Sign up for our newsletter to receive the latest tips, tricks, recipes and more, sent twice a week.