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WHITE - Sorellina/Stella

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WHITE - Sorellina/Stella

hunter | Feb 1, 2006 12:54 PM

My thumbs down to the two White-White restaurants which have opened recently - both seem to favor 'style' highly over substance.

The patio at Stella I like, but the glaringly white inside fails to make me comfortable, particularly at a 'neighborhood' restaurant. Food is fine, but consistently feels like it gets secondary attention after Image.

Newly opened Sorrellina fares even worse. THe bar is blindingly bright and the tables are so close together that a slow night left us feeling like we were eating in the snow-filled parking lot at the beginning of Fargo. Food was not bad, but surprisingly weak. Lots of generic tomato-based dishes and a fondness for cast-iron dishes left our 'fonduta' seared to the plate with oil floating on top.

May just be me, but Real neighborhood restaurants with Real food and Real people as servers/bartenders (think Cragie Street, Caffe Umbra, Pierrot, Oleana) will bring me back far more regularly than the stark-'coolness' of Stella ... and 'impressive' but quality hotspots like No.9, Via Matta, etc. are bound to stay more satisfying than the Bright Lights (visible from blocks away) of Sorrelina.

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