Given the lack of up-to-date information on chowhound about food in Scotland, thought I would write up our last trip in Oct. 2019.
We flew into Glasgow and drove up to Glencoe, stopping at Monachyle Mhor for lunch. The location is lovely, and I would strongly recommend spending the night there if you can, their hotel rooms looked gorgeous. The lunch menu was lovely, I had a delicious piece of trout with herbs and grapefruit that was light and perfectly prepared. And second a puff pastry stuffed with butternut squash and goat cheese that was delicious. My husband’s beef was very nice as well. Very solid lunch spot.
We spent the night in Mallaig, eating at a local seafood spot which was fine.
We spent the next day on Eigg, and traveled on to the Isle of Skye to have dinner at Three Chimneys. My feelings about this place are mixed. The service was terrible, like one of the worst service experiences I have ever had at a fancy restaurant- sommelier wanted to cut corners and was pouring wines for those getting the wine pairing in the back and just bringing out the glasses to save time until a client threw a fit at him. I would say though that the pairing itself was excellent. When some of the tables freed up at the end of dinner, the servers didn’t clean them down, so for the second half of our meal, half the tables around us were dirty and crumb-covered. In terms of the food, some courses were stellar, like the first langoustine course, an apple-cured scallop, and the rabbit. The beef course wasn’t great and a few others were unbalanced I thought.
The next night still on Skye we ate at Scorrybreac because Loch Bay was booked out. Scorrybreac was ok, small and cute, service wasn’t great, and I would say the food was ok, but nothing exceptional.
The next day as we drove onwards to Ullapool we stopped for lunch at Kinloch Lodge. Wow- this is the definition of civilized with a drink in the drawing room before you go in for food, then a delicious amuse and soup. The starter was a very nicely prepared piece of salmon and the mains were nice though not stand out. But the dessert was delicious. This is the kind of place you should come for lunch and then stay for the afternoon to read a book and have a cup of tea by the fireplace. The waiter managing the bar has the most impressive grip on their 140+ whiskey bottle collection, very impressive.
In Ullapool we ate at the Arch Inn- would not recommend it. Ceilidh Place sounded better and we should have gone there.
Small non-foodie tip- from Isle of Skye to Ullapool I strongly suggest you do not do the google maps route, but instead this one, which takes about 4.5 hours and is STUNNING- the tremendous Torridon and Wester Ross circuit roads, via Loch Carron, Shieldaig, Torridon, Kinlochewe, Loch Maree, Gairloch, Dundonnell, and eventually Ullapool.
We went up to Assynt the next day only to find out that the Albannach, and the same owners’ gastropub have been shut down- apparently they got into debt with the bank, which has seized both restaurants. We went to the famous Lochinver Larder instead, savory pies were good, their fresh langoustines were stunning, and their dessert rhubarb pie was one of the yummiest desserts I have had in eons.
On our final night we ate at Chez Roux at Rocpool Reserve in Inverness. This was great, my langoustine starter was fab, as was my fish main dish with risotto (perfectly cooked fish, delicious risotto and really stunning flavors). Didn’t love dessert but all in all a great meal.
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