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Wang's, Somerville (long)

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Wang's, Somerville (long)

aromatherapy | Feb 12, 2003 11:08 AM

Various fairly recent eats at Wang’s Fast Food, 509 Broadway:

Chestnut with Fatty Pork: A hit! Smoky-sweet dried chestnuts and boneless cubes of, well, fatty pork, in a deeply savory braise. Slightly to moderately spicy-hot, depending on whether you pick out or eat (yum) the bigger red chili pieces. Very simple, amazingly satisfying. Served with steamed broccoli florets, which are superfluous but do no harm.

Fried Squid with Spicy Salt and Pepper: Dull. Competent fry job, but too much batter and not enough flavors of squid, salt, and pepper.

Beef with Spicy Green Pepper: Really, really good stir-fry. The peppers are the long, thin, moderately hot green kind, not bells. There are lots of them.

Dry Sauteed String Beans: This is a pleasant enough vegetarian dish. But it ain’t “dry.” Where are the dry-fried beans of yore? Shriveled, brown, tasty? Anybody seen them lately?

Yu Shang Eggplant in Garlic Sauce (ordered extra-spicy): A quite decent vegetarian version. No dried mushrooms, and they’ve added red and green bell peppers, making it a brighter, simpler dish than the classic. Lightly sweet-sour. I didn’t find it more than moderately spicy, but tenderer palates may disagree.

Spinach with Garlic Sauce: Good stir-fried spinach, and they don’t stint on the garlic.

Sweet and Sour Sliced Turnip: Actually shredded daikon and carrot, with rice vinegar, sugar, salt, and zingy ginger threads, plus an unadvertised (and invisible) wallop of dried chili flakes. Yum.

Spicy Chinese Cabbage: Tastes like nonfermented kimchi to me. I like kimchi. Gingery.

Scallion Pie: Okay, nothing special.

I agree with the previous poster about the goodness of the Smoked Bean Curd with Pork and the Peking Meat Sauce Noodle (thanks for the tip!).

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