Had a great short week in Basel Switzerland. In Basel we went to the Weinstube of Gasthaus Teufelhof (Weinstube at the Teufelhof Leonhardsgraben 47-49, 4051 Basel Phone +41 61 261 10 10, Fax +41 61261 10 04)
and Gasthof zum Goldenen Sternen as well as two catered events which were exceptional. The Gasthof zum Glodenen Sternen is set in a pleasant medievel house next to the Rhine with a nice courtyard. It was asparagus season- so most of us had asparagus is various ways (soup, au gratin, with hollandaise and with their local pike perch zanderfilet). Nice selection of reasonable local wines including those from nearby Alsace. The Weinstube was quite pleasant- an asparagus soup with mushroom ravioli followed by mushroom pasta a housemade terrine with local fish accompanied by risoto. There was an interesting selection of wines by the glass- though the Swiss white was a bit acidic it was reasonable with the food. The strawberry compote was unremarkable. Both would be worth a return.
There are more cafe's along the Clarastrasses and into the Marketplatz than you can count. Confiserie Tea Room Schiesser had the best truffles of our stay.
On at least Friday and Saturday in season there is a market in Marketplatz, next to the Rathaus (city hall). Easily reached by the trams which are part of your hotel stay. There were wurst grilling, beer available, swiss and italian cheeses, fresh vegtables, bread- arguably the best lunch option in town.
Many of the cafe's and Restaurants we walked past looked as good as those we chose.
A side trip to Stein on Rhein- worth the visit for classic medievel walled city and the nearby Rheinfalls, a bleak day was brightened by fabulous fondue along the main street.
In Zurich we had a classic Weinerschnitzel at Kropf Beirhall near Paradeplatz. Restaurant Conti filled in for the closed L'entrecote. L'Entrecote has among the best (probably the best) steak frites in Paris and has a weekday branch at the Banhofstrasse across the the Banhoff SBB. We'd recommend that if (and only if) you want steak frites- the rest of the menu is so limited as to be absent). At Restaurant Conti we just surfed in ahead of the gliterrati after the Opera on a wet Sunday evening. While not cheap- outstanding asparagus papperdelle, a nicely prepared veal chop; a simple, perfectly done arugula salad and an enourmous serving of excellent mushroom pasta. Looks like the owners have a variety of Italian options in town.