Just got back to SF from my first visit to Martha's Vineyard. However, I was armed with some tips from this board and from my brother-in-law and his wife who have been visiting MV for years.
First off, it was nice to be there after the summer crowds have left - I can't imagine what it must be like in the middle of the summer. Our rental house was not far from Morning Glory Farms....beautiful produce of the highest quality (prices to match) but worth it. Bought one of their apple pies - very tasty but the pastry was a bit too "rustic/granola" for me. But it was still enjoyable. I did notice that they were carrying Goldbud Farm peaches from the foothills of California (near Placerville) for $6.50 a pound! They are great peaches but I'm used to seeing them for $3.50 or something like that? Stopped at the A&P to pick up a few staples and saw some Cold Hollow Apple Cider from Vermont - I've been to their farm and we bought several 1/2 gallons of this delicious cider - it was like drinking apple pie! (Up in Vermont they make great cider donuts to go with their juice.) I'm getting off course a bit here....
We got great tasting, humongous sandwiches from Humphrey's in Edgartown for lunch one day - the gobbler is full of turkey, stuffing and cranberry - yummy! And there Cubano is pretty tasty also. Didn't care for their baked goods - the jelly donut I tried was pretty substantial -it doesn't have to be as airy as Krispy Kreme but something in between would be nice. I liked the filling - it actually had some flavor. The brownie and blondie (because the pies had not been delivered yet) were very dry and not appealing at all. I was a bit surprised that a place that made such great sandwiches would miss so widely with their baked goods....In Oak Bluffs, we came across a concentration of ice cream/candy stores and lucked into Ben & Bills Chocolate Emporium. Their Butter Crunch Ice Cream is incredibly good! We found a reason to return later that night and had a second cone! Their original store is in Falmouth, on the Cape - I've been told. Visited the beach at Menemsha to take in the sunset and have fried clams at the Bite. The fried clams were as good as I've heard but they're a bit stingy with the tartar sauce. The fried oysters were not very sweet, tho. Stick with the clams. And the fried zuchinni was not very good at all. The french fries were good and the chowder was delicious! We ate lunch and dinner there. The other option was to go to the raw bar at Larson's Seafood Market - a nice selection of morsels but I went for more fried clams at the Bite. I did buy some scallops and blue fish that I cooked for dinner. Their fish is impeccably fresh. My wife wanted to go to the Black Dog for a Bluefish dinner but it wasn't available as an entree the night we ate there. We did try an appetizer of smoked bluefish that was pretty tasty. My linguini with clams was only OK....heavily salted - from over reducing the clam broth? I almost sent it back but doctored it up with a lot of lemon juice and soaked it up with bread. (you have to pay for bread) The service was not very knowledgeable about the menu - "do you have bluefish tonight? ummm - let me check ...." enthusiastic but lacking somewhat. Prices for full entrees in the mid 20 -$30 range - I decided to cook -in a few nights. When you can buy fish that's this fresh - why not? Not to mention that there are lobster tanks in many of the better seafood markets. Oh, the $11 lobster roll at the Edgartown Seafood Market was good but I'm not sure it was worth the $$$$.
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