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venice follow up notes

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venice follow up notes

jen kalb | Feb 21, 2006 01:51 PM

I posted last week about the high point meals of our trip to venice. See link below. Here are a few additional notes.

(1) If you are planning to be in Venice for more than a day or two Venezia: Osteria e dintorni by Michele Scibilia is the restaurant guide for venetians thus for you. In addition to getting you to the places where you are likely to get a good meal, it has a solid map in the back. Also available in English as something like Eateries of Venice, but check the issue date - the most recent version of the italian language guide, which is perfectly comprehensible, came out in November 2005. Not really available in the US, but bookstores in Venice carry it - I bought mine from the outdoor vendor in the piazza behind Santa Maria Formosa.

(2) dont fall for the grossly large "golossei" or cookies in the pastry shop windows, they are probably stale. buy the stuff behind the counter. Marchini over by San Marco will be reliable for upscale packaged treats.

(3) we really love the fritelle veneziana - dark yeast fritters with currants, orange flavor, etc sometimes filled with zabaglione or crema. The fritelle at Tonolo nr San Pantalon are especially good - I like the dark ones with raisins best, but Tonolo's other fritters filled with lemonscented cream or aforementioned zab are great. Hard to strike out in this shop. We got good fritelle elsewhere too, including in the G. Rizzo store near the Guglie bridge. Do check out the Colussi pastry shop on Calle Lunga San Barnaba, from traditional cookies an sweets, especially on thurs when he bakes the "focaccia" - actually more like a panettone than anything. the baker - getting on in years so this experience may not be there forever - was out when we checked on Fri pm, so dont delay.

(4) Ive reported before on Tratt. Anzolo Raffaele in Dorsoduro, but its closed (boo hoo) , replaced by a new place called something like Pane, Vini San Daniele which looks promising (written up in the Scibilia book)

(5) Pizza - we had good pizza experiences at Ae Oche in San Polo (they also seem to have a huge branch on the Zattere in Dorsoduro)- a giant salad with shaved parmigiano and figs was also excellent - and at Il Faro in Cannaregio (on the calle between the two ghettos)

(6) Ive seen recommendations before of the Trattoria da Ponte Meglio (its across the bridge from alla Zucca) - IMO it delivers pretty average venetian fare - Im not sure whether my spaghetti with scampi and radiccho contained either, for example. No a bad place, but not an acceptable fallback - plan ahead for alla zucca and avoid our experience.

(7) Weve visited Venice previously at Christmas and in late January and the markets were the sparsest we have ever seen this time (early Feb) in terms of local produce AND fish. Almost no adriatic seafood, most from a distance or thawed out at the Rialto, nothing really from the lagoon tho there must be some which gets picked off by the fine restaurants since we had some delish local stuff in a fritto misto at Anice Stellato. A major downside to a late winter visit.

Another winter downside - I would say about a third to half of the restaurants we stopped by were closed for a holiday. Upside - tho we didnt take advantage is that it was possible to walk in most places without a reservation but get there early - by 12:30 for lunch -if you want to have your best shot.

Link: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/show/...

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