Ill be in Venice for three weeks and Ive rented an apartment on Calle d. Barcaroli, located between San Marco and La Fenice. I know Venice well but this will be my first time residing in this neighborhood. Dorsoduro has been my usual haunt for the last six years. I already have my solid list of favorite Venice restaurants but I would love any helpful information from those travelers who have discovered worthwhile places to patronize in or near this particular location. Im specifically looking for the following: (a) a decent grocery store, (b) a good place to purchase cheese, fresh-baked bread and marmalade (c) any good salumeria, alimentari, or gastronomia, (d) the best Bacaro with good Cicchetti (e) a lovely florist, (f) a decent pharmacy, and last but not least, (f) a truly local caffé for tasty morning cappuccino or late afternoon espresso.
Also, my Venice restaurant sources tell me that Al Graspo de Ua has a new chef, a Cipriani ex-pat, whos working hard to revive its former glory. Im told this is the new, must-try place for dinner. Has anyone been recently and fallen in love? And, does anyone know anything about Bruno Paolato, and is his La Colonna ristorante still in business? Thanks for the help.