Traveling through the Catskills last week, I happened on a barbecue joint in an unlikely spot -- the little town of Coldenham, on Route 17K, right off of I-84. A Taste of Texas, it was called, and it looked pretty promising. They had a big old smoker hard at work out back, for one thing. Trouble is, for various reasons I wasn't able to actually stop and try it (which hurt, believe me). Anyone been there? Heard of it?