It had been a while since I last went to Upstairs on the Square, but after my recent visit, I'm totally putting this place back in high rotation. Scarcely a false note, but a few highlights:
Spring pea soup - creamy, fresh, and complex; one of those dishes that manages to impress the palette's entire spectrum at once
Hand-rolled tagliatelle - perfectly al dente pasta, with a surprisingly subtle combination of littlenecks, ramps, jalapeño peppers, and chorizo
Pan-fried halibut - anything with their ricotta cavatelli is always a treat; a really well-conceived combination of the cavatelli, marinated shrimp, bacon, green garlic, and fava beans
Vanilla ice cream - simple and honest, this was some of the best ice cream I've had in as long as I can remember; totally smooth and unbelievably creamy, my waistline was glad the scoop was small, as I would have eaten however much had been placed in front of me
Wine pairings were great as always; I was especially smitten by my glass of Nicolette Christopher Cabernet.
The usual annoyances: it was loud, the tables were too small and too close together, some of the people-watching made me wince. But it didn't matter. This was one of the nicest upscale meals I've had in a while. I can't wait to get back.