our south-of-the-Catskills host this weekend took us to an amazing little trout farm on a side road in the tiny burg of Mileses, New York, a few miles outside Callicoon. An old Japanese sculptor has turned the creek that runs through his yard into a series of trout spawning and breeding ponds. We drove up, knocked on the door, and he walked us down the creek to a lower pond, stuck a net in, and brought up three gorgeous lively fat brown-spotted brook trout that weighed a total of 7 lbs. They were so meaty the five of us only got through one and a half of them (grilled on gas grill) that evening, astonishingly flavorful (do not overcook, they go dry). I felt sad as we left, wondering what on earth will happen to Mr. Kashiwagi's system when he dies or gets too old to deal with it, it is clearly put together with so much love and knowledge of what he does. We were saying that some enterprising farmer up there should apprentice one of his kids to the man while he can still pass it all on. I'm afraid I can't remember the name of the road but presumably Mr. Kashiwagi is in the Callicoon phone book.
p.s. he charged us $3 a pound ($21) and wouldn't hear of Andy giving him $25 and not getting change.