Very grateful for your responses to my post ("5 miles from Newark Airport"). Perhaps I shouldn't have sounded so literal about the distance -- it was just my way of saying, not far, but I love that people responded with actual distances from Mapquest and apologized for those slightly more than 5 miles away.
So I took the advice and went to Spirito's, in Elizabeth. It was exactly what I hoped. Got there around 9 PM tonight (Sunday), just a couple of tables filled, and the staff sitting around, smoking. I had the chance to try both a pie (pepperoni/cheese) and the ravioli with meat sauce. The pizza was the best non-yuppie pizza I've ever had -- thin yet substantial crust, not over-cheesed, and the right amount of grease. (The best yuppie pizza I've had is Emma's, in Kendall Square, Cambridge, MA, but that's a different food group.) The ravioli stole the show: creamy pillows in thick sauce. Would have preferred more meat in the sauce, but the lack of meat let the cheese take over. The filling oozed out into the sauce upon cutting into each one, making a thick pink gravy for the ravioli -- definitely a hit.
On the down side, the bottle of wine we ordered came to our table uncorked. We knew better than to argue. I suppose it was forgiven since they charged only $9 for the bottle.
I'll be back.