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France Trip Report

Trip Report by yyc_mom


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Restaurants & Bars 23

Trip Report by yyc_mom

yyc_mom | Oct 7, 2012 12:56 PM

I am in Paris now, and enjoying myself thoroughly!

My request for suggestions was posted here:
Thank you to everyone who made suggestions!

Trip report here:
Day 1, Saturday - The RER from CDG into Paris is under construction on the weekends. We took the bus to Mtiry-Claye and the RER in from there. Met the agent at our apartment, who was very nice, but a little too chatty, since we had less than 4 hours sleep on the plane.

Once we settled in, called Dans Les Landes for a reservation. "You want a reservation when?" "Yes, at 5 o'clock." "Okay." We had a nice walk over (although a bit drizzly), and a nice meal. The restaurant was mostly empty at 5pm. The chalkboard menu is reversible, with English (or mostly English) on the reverse side. We got the grilled quail filets, which were fantastic, Xistora sausage, very good, and the Italian sucrine salad - not at all expected, but quite good - lettuce with pasta and olives and pine nuts in a tomato dressing. Once we finished that, my husband thought he could do with one more dish, since this was our first meal since the muffin on the plane. We got the panis with chorizo and rosemary - some sort of deep fried goody. Mostly tasted like rosemary. Good, but not great. We had all that with a demi-pichet of red wine, some sort of Cote du Rhone. For deserts, we got the madeline fourees au chocolat au creme ovomatine. Excellent. Even though my husband didn't care for ovoltine as a kid, the creme was wonderful. The madelines tasted mostly like citrus though, you could not taste the chocolat in them. We also got the tourtiere aux pommes, which was okay. The total bill was 64 Euros. I think next time we would skip the panis, and try some dessert other than the tourtiere aux pommes.

Followng Dans Les Landes, we stopped at a fromagerie on Rue Monge and got Camembert, butter, yogurt, and ham, and a store on Rue Saint-Germain for fruit. Also got a baguette. This was midnight snack (still jet-lagged) and breakfast. Then attempted to sleep through the partying outside during Nuit Blanche.

Day 2: Market at Raspail. Pastries from Gerard Mulot. Mont-d'Or and aged Comte from Laurent Dubois. We had fun shopping at the Raspail Marche. After that, we went to Gerard Mulot and got a piece of peach tart, biscuit chocolat, and 4 macarons. The peach tart and biscuit chocolat were lunch (with the rest of the baguette and some cheese). The peach tart was tasty, with a nice flavor of cloves, I think. The biscuit chocolat was cake, not a cookie, and definitely had coffee in it. Very good. The total bill for the two pastries and 4 macarons was 14,93, which seems a little high to me. My husband was happy that I told him to buy the Mont d'Or, which he was debating over, because he loves stinky cheese, and I merely tolerate it. He enjoyed it a lot.

Between lunch and dinner, we went to the Eiffel Tower. We should have purchased tickets in advance, but I didn't know what sort of schedule we'd be on. So we stood in line, and ended up only going to the second level because the top was so crowded. Ah well. We will have more views from Sacre-Couer and Notre Dame.

We made dinner with our purchases from the day. To start: fresh radishes with salt and/or butter and/or mint. Dinner: variety of sausages, portobellos cooked with lots of butter and some shallots, and a sort of ratatouille, followed by a lettuce salad with cherry tomatoes and carrots, and a simple vinagrette. Dinner was fantastic. My favorite part was the buttery mushrooms; my husband loved the ratatouille, even with no herbs (he cooked eggplant with green peppers and tomatoes and shallots). After dinner, we had some of the aged comte, and ate the macarons from Gerard Mulot, which were amazing. We had chocolate, coffee, caramel, and almond-vanilla macarons. I think my favorite was the caramel, but they were all excellent. And we drank a bottle of Cote-du-Nuit. The aged comte was almost like candy - creamy with flecks of salt crystals. Excellent. For those keeping track of costs, we spent almost 30 Euros at the Raspail Marche, which is all organic - that included all our vegetables, the sausages, and a boulle of bread, plus some more grapes for breakfast tomorrow. And we have some leftover vegetables for dinner later in the week. The cheese and wine were purchased separately.

I am planning to go to Julien in the 4th for breakfast tomorrow, and then the Louvre. Not yet decided on lunch/snack plans, or on where to get protein for dinner.

I will continue to update my trip report as my trip progresses!

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