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Trip Report - Montreal 7/3-7/8

urbanfabric | Jul 10, 201807:01 AM

hi folks,

I did a lot of scanning of new and old posts on this board before my trip, so I thought I'd report back on all of our good eats and drinks during our trip.

Tuesday:
Dieu du Ciel - after arriving to our apartment on 7/3 and finding that the windows were closed and the a/c unit off, we immediately dropped our bags and ran to a cooler locale. We only had beers here, but they were delightful. I stayed towards the session IPAs, but would be interested to go back for the malt-ier stuff in cooler temps.

Wednesday:
Arts Cafe - Mile End - cute cafe, great coffee, and good breakfast bites
Bar George - we bailed on the apt for one night and checked into a hotel in the Golden Square Mile area. Found this lovely hotel bar with an impeccable lunch menu including a blood pudding raviolo! Cocktails are definitely their strength, wine by the glass list was just okay.
Bouillon Bilk - this was our one planned reservation and it did not disappoint (thanks, CH!). We went with the 8-course tasting menu and wine pairing. The wine pairing was so well done, really spectacular selections that tended toward the funky, natural stuff that I am really digging these days. Food highlight for me was a veal tartare with a fried oyster on top, but every course was well conceived and executed.

Thursday:
Larry's - Saint-Laurent Blvd- Everywhere was hot. Streets, restaurants, our apartment (but better than it had been Tuesday night, so we went back). We sweated through lunch at two seats at the counter by the kitchen at Larry's. Awesome wine by the glass selection. We had a few fresh veg dishes (cucumber salad, heirloom tomatoes), a liver toast, and a fish tartare - all wonderful.
Alma - Outremont - a rec from the somm at Bouillon Bilk, we made a last minute res here for "bar seats" which were really just facing the kitchen. These are the folks from Farine and a local wine importer. Not shocking, the wines by the glass and bottle were phenomenal. Lots of Catalonian wines I'd never had - funky, unfiltered, natural stuff. Food was awesome as well, capped off by two pasta dishes, including a black pasta w/tomatoes and clams, and a cacio e pepe.

Friday:
What a great weather day, and what a relief with the cooler temps!
St. Viateur Bagels - We did our first bagel purchase at St. Viateur and sat outside to enjoy them before heading out to some sightseeing
Marché Des Éclusiers - had a light lunch outside at this pop up market/restaurant. The millieu was nicer than the food, but it was nice to sit outside.
Jean Talon Market - it was a quiet afternoon here, which allowed us to wander without being in the way. I enjoyed shopping for Quebecois cheese at Fromagerie Hamel, they guided me to some real winners.
Buvette Chez Simone - in our neighborhood, another rec from Bouillon Bilk's somm and it was fantastic. After eating all the cheese from Hamel, we stuck with some veg and meat dishes for our artfully arranged platter. The foie mousse was great, but my favorite dish was a fried mushroom assortment with a poached egg on top. Wines by the glass were really good and we got great guidance from the bartenders. I appreciate the opportunity to taste (which we found at a lot of wine bars, nice touch!).

Saturday:
Fairmount Bagels - Another glorious morning filled with a warm sesame bagel consumed outside. I'm not sure there was a clear winner, but in the end, I think I preferred St. Viateur for a slightly toastier flavor
Schwartz's - Very touristy, but I thoroughly enjoyed my sandwich and fries. We were there around 11 and sat right away.
Le Vin Papillon - Went right as they opened, but could have come a couple hours later and still gotten a seat pretty easily (inside, as the patio was the big draw). We went for the wine, but were blown away by the food. The celery root, sliced thinly and drizzled in chicken fat, was the surprise winner for me, but I was also really impressed with dessert (which takes a lot for me). We had a sour cherry brioche with a goat milk sort-of frosting. Basically a frosted cinnamon bun, but instead of cinnamon, sour cherries, and goat milk frosting instead of cream cheese.
Larry's - as we'd done a really early meal at LVP, we did a later snack at Larry's - getting both the beef tartare and the fish tartare. I adore tartare and continued to be impressed with Larry's. Also, it was considerably cooler in temperature this time around!

Sunday:
St. Viateur + Hamel + our Terrace - we spent our final hour in Montreal on our apartment terrace, eating the rest of our Hamel cheeses, another round of bagels from St. Viateur, and the cold brew coffee we'd finally found at an organic market a couple blocks away. We vowed to return to Montreal... maybe just in the fall...

A few non-food/drink highlights - tour (in English!) of Habitat 67; Balleciaga exhibit at the McCord; admiring the murals along St. Laurent; the silly, but fun Barbie Expo in the underground mall downtown; catching a World Cup game at the Pub Burgundy Lion

Dieu du Ciel!,
Arts Café,
BOUILLON BILK,
Bar George,
Larrys,
Alma,
St-Viateur Bagel & Café Mont-Royal,
Marché des Éclusiers,
Buvette Chez Simone,
Schwartz's Deli - Sandwiches - Steaks
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