Restaurants & Bars 4


Josh | May 22, 1998 01:03 PM

Riva & I tried Trilogy, in Croton. It replaced
the second incarnation of Sonoma in the Amberlands
plaza on Rt. 9A north of the village.

It's a pretty place: comfortable tables, well spaced,
soft lighting (perhaps too soft; it was sometimes hard
to see). The food was enjoyable but overpriced.

We started with crab cakes -- always a good measure of
a restaurant, I think. They were very tasty, light,
and well-seasoning, but a little too bready for my
taste. They were served with wonderful cole slaw.
Riva had grilled chicken and apple sausage with a port
wine glaze. Nice, too, but I didn't think that sausage
worked well as a dinner food.

Riva picked her main course better than I did. She had
rack of lamb -- really, three chops -- with a generous
assortment of vegetables. This dish was just right. I
had loin of pork with a chipotle glaze which was a
disappointment. The meat was fine, but the glaze was
sweet rather than smoky and spicy. The owner came by
and I commented on it; he admitted that it was bland,
but said that some people complain that it's too hot.
I don't consider this a reasonable excuse: Either do it
right or don't do it at all. If your clientele doesn't
want spicy, don't offer it.

Desserts were mixed. My berry tart was very nice;
Riva's poached pear with roquefort wasn't worth the
trouble. The cheese was second rate and much too

The owner came round to offer advise when I was
choosing a wine. We discussed pinot noirs and he
recommended one. It was delightful at first, but
within 15 minutes it had lost all the sharpness and was
unpleasantly sweet.

Dinner for two with a $34 bottle of wine came to $116.
This meal was not worth that price.

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