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Restaurants & Bars 15

Triangle: Amante Gourmet Pizza

David A. | Jul 11, 200502:13 PM

Tried it for the first time last week. Boy does it suck. Limp crust, sweet sauce, gelatinous cheese. I used to say that even a bad pizza is good, but I'm no longer so sure. Bagels, pizza -- nobody even knows what these are supposed to taste like anymore. Sad. The root of the problem, I can only imagine, is that so many people have little or no exposure to genuine baked goods. They grow up on Wonder Bread and have no idea that bread even has the potential to be textured, fragrant, complex. A shocking symbol of the general decline in baking standards are the rosemary rolls served at 411 West. Crustless, dense, insipid. I've also had terrible bread at Vespa and at Bella Napoli in Cary (which I otherwise like). In Chapel Hill and Durham, with Weaver Street Market and Gugelhupf at our disposal, we don't do too badly, but I believe there are large swathes of America where the traditional bakery no longer exists to instil standards.

David A.

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