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Trattoria Toscana charms again


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Trattoria Toscana charms again

MC Slim JB | Aug 31, 2006 02:49 AM

Partly inspired by a recent Chowhound post, the memory of Trattoria Toscana's fegato bruschetta made the prospect of another visit here especially tantalizing. It did not disappoint on a recent evening, rendering another fine example of the soulful (to use Limster's apt adjective), dead-authentic evocation of Tuscan cuisine and hospitality practiced here. That fegato was perfect -- light yet rich, with that luscious fatty mouthfeel that properly-done liver delivers. The fresh tomato version was equally simple and fresh and just right, in no small part due to really high-quality Tuscan bread with exactly the right amount of charring. Good summer tomatoes didn't hurt, either.

We also got the ever-reliable rigatoni Norcina (a creamy/rich sweet-sausage sauce) and my first try of their eggplant parmigiana, which I don't imagine is very Tuscan but showed superb technique: airy and ungreasy, not oversauced, allowing the vegetable flavor to shine through, and benefiting from a pretty little snowfall of carefully grated, fine cheese on top. A summer variant on their bomba dessert was lovely: white instead of dark chocolate hard coating, mango and passionfruit and lemon sorbet instead of vanilla and cherry ice cream layers inside. Very nice.

The usual casual, friendly service, with the chef/owner as ever seeming to find a little time to spend with every table, clearly interested in making sure everyone was enjoying themselves rather than attention/praise-seeking the way some of his peers do: such a genuine, nice guy. They really make it easy for you to want to come back here again and again.

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