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Trattoria Mulino - a report

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Restaurants & Bars

Trattoria Mulino - a report

Walnetto | Nov 16, 2002 10:17 PM

Ate in this new italian restaurant on 5th last night and really enjoyed it. Started with their Mulino salad -- an assortment of fresh greens with shaved provolone served on a warmed plate. I thought this a bit odd, but it softened the cheese a bit, and when mingled with oil and vinegar the flavors really came out. Fresh, chewy bread on the side, not warm, but not the cottony stuff that passes for bread in some places. Main entree was scallops oreganata. The scallops were lightly cooked with just a wee bit of crusting on the edge, accompanied by a scampi sauce: a perfect blend of garlic, oil and bread crumbs. I wanted to sop up the whole thing...and nearly did. Ended meal with decaf espresso and tiramisu, which were just right. Tying the whole thing together was a pleasant glass of montepulciano. Though I didn't taste it, my friend's shrimp parmigiana looked beautifully prepared as well.

The service was generally good. Our waitress was a sweet young lady (from Italy, I think). Only her second day on the job, so she was a bit befuddled, but everything came promptly and to order, so no complaints there.

Prices are reasonable. With so many places charging $7 a glass for wine, Trattoria Mulino's $5 seems like a bargain, though you can spend a lot more for a bottle. I was impressed with the selection. I believe they have a larger choice than many in the neighborhood.
Most entrees are in the $12 to $20 and feature traditional Italian cooking (veal parmigiana, chicken francese, manicotti, etc.) They even had (good Lord!) one of those enormous pepper mills that could double as a baseball bat. A silly cliche, yes, but Trattoria Mulino goes beyond cliche. Judging by my one meal, the food is is cooked with care, and I will be going back.

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