Back in the city and a week into another three-week stay. Within 24 hours, I'd stopped (for a drink and/or appetizer) (and/or gelato) at French 75, Pelican Club, Brennan's (I was actually surprised they let me in just for a cup of turtle soup, but they were very nice), Hermes Bar, Sylvain, Mandina's, Liuzza's, and Angelo Brocato. My first real dinner was at Emeril's: fine, but I think I'm good for another then years, then Galatoire's (also fine, but I'm probably only good for another week or so). Patois was good but not as terrific as last spring, A Mano was good but mostly I wished I was at Domenica. Then last night, the meal of the trip so far, my first visit to Borgne. Grilled oysters and Sheepshead en Papillote both first-rate. And while at first I was disappointed the crab bisque was not on the menu, their cream of garlic soup turned out to be the clear star of the night: cream, a little cheese, and an egg yolk. The flavor was intense and out of this world. I'll be back later in the month just to gave it again. Chocolate-hazelnut pudding with condensed-milk sorbet (!) also mighty fine. More later.