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Restaurants & Bars 2

Tommaso's in SF's North Beach

Fine | Jun 6, 200310:33 PM

Stopped at Tommasso's last night for the first time in a while. The joint was absolutely jumping approaching 10 PM.

I've always ordered one of the marinated vegetable dishes here--most often broccoli, sometimes green beans or asparagus--but had somehow never noticed a Vegetarian Antipasto for about double the price (13.50). We tried it and it was a work of art both visually and culinarily: lightly dressed broccoli, asparagus, zucchini, garbanzos, green beans, braised red and green peppers, eggplant, and maybe something I'm forgetting.

The topping on our "vegetarian" pizza--with anchovies replacing green peppers--was more delicate than I recall, the dough as good as white flour dough can get: tender where it should be, and crunchy where it should be.

I decided to try a monthly special--eggplant and pasta shells--instead of either calamari or broccoli and spaghetti, my usual choices. It was ok, but not memorable.

The waiter whisked our wine away to decant when he noticed the vintage (I think the Joseph Swan Zin we brought was an 85), without being asked.

Agostino recognizes us as longtime if infrequent customers, but I really can't believe that influenced the quality of the food in the madhouse setting.

The only nostalgia attack I experienced was for the long ago time when young women were taught to modulate their voices.(I've never watched a sitcom, but I have seen snipppets advertized and am persuaded they are responsible for the nasal, grating tone so common among young women today, made even more piercing by excess alcohol consumption.)

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