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Restaurants & Bars


Tokyo Restaurant


Restaurants & Bars 5

Tokyo Restaurant

Jim Leff | Sep 22, 1999 07:57 PM

One of the weirdest things about being a restaurant
critic--as all of them will tell you--is that you can
never predict which of your reviews will attract

I wrote up a place called Tokyo Restaurant (342
Lexington, (212) 697-8330) in my book, and I've not
heard a WORD about it since--from readers, from the
other media, on this site. It went "thud". I don't know

I find this place extraordinarily good, though also
extraordinarily difficult. They have a very boring
English menu for gaijin listing all the usual suspects,
all cooked competently (with the exception of salmon
meuniere, and beef katsu, made from rib-eye steak). But
if you speak Japanese--or can persuade the manager that
you won't go all squeamish on him--you can get the most
wondrous off-menu treats that include some of the most
subtle, complex, and unusual Japanese food I've ever
tried. there are some French touches (like that salmon
meuniere), but they're very well incorporated into the
cooking--not at all self-conscious.

There's more specific info in my book (the publisher
would kill me if I reprinted my review here), but I'm
wondering if ANYONE has ever checked it out...?

Note: they have sushi, but it's reputed to be good-not-
great. I didn't even bother trying it.

also, it's a clip joint. They pour the sake...and
pour...even "top off" your glass, and the meter is
running BIGTIME. Like I said, it's a difficult eat...


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