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Tocqueville -- Pleasing

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Restaurants & Bars

Tocqueville -- Pleasing

cabrales | Apr 3, 2004 02:30 PM

I had another good Saturday lunch at Tocqueville today. I again started with a glass of Krug, and had the $30 three-course Market menu (offered in addition to the $20.04 prix fixe menu). The dining room team continued to be very helpful, and it was a good start to the weekend. There is a calm focus on food which is a nice feature of this restaurant.

We began with pea soup, of an appropriately lightish (i.e., nongrainy) consistency that was nicely accompanied by feve-like whole beans at the bottom of the dish. Good elaboration of a product. Also nice, the inclusion at the top of the soup of a few pea shoots that were slightly more peppery than most pea shoots I have sampled.

The entree for the Market Menu was bass. Wild bass pan-fried, on a bed of chanterelle and other mushrooms. Buttery sauce. Fish piece that was appropriately prepared, and pleasing. I had a glass of (white, of course) Burgundy, from Olivier Leflaive ($15) with this dish.

Dessert for the Market Menu was apple "pizza". Nice buttery connotations to the crust. Vanilla ice cream was a bit thin in consistency, but it still supported the apple dessert.

In addition to the above, my dining companion and I also shared 6 Kumamoto oysters, which were again presented with a nice, pink-peppercorn and chive with rice wine vinegar mignonette. We also sampled the tuna belly tartare with mini greens and a piece of hamachi, before the bass. Little dots of wasabi were nice, but the better accompaniment was the sauce made from cream and sevruga caviar. Yum. The sauce was very good.

(A surprising nod to dining room team assistance at Amuse as well, which I visited last night. The food did not particularly impress, but the service was earnest and attentive)

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