Dinner last night was "Rites of Spring" . . . we had a vegetable soup (mostly Romanesco broccoli and broccoli raab, with a few other odds-and-ends thrown in, combines with chicken stock, and finished with a dollop of creme fraiche and some drops of white truffle oil), braised leeks with oyster mushrooms, and quail stuffed with "greens sausage" from the Fatted Calf. Dinner was, if I must say so myself, fantastic! And so was the wine . . .
2005 Jasnières "Les Rosiers," Domaine de Bellivière (Loire Valley, France): This small appellation -- the entire AOC covers but 37 hectares/91.4 acres -- is being revitalized by the likes of Eric Nicolas and his wife, Christine. Pure Chenin Blanc, this wine is a sec, a dry wine, but is more fleshy and silky than, say, a Savennières in its youth. LIght honey-gold in color, clean and brilliant, the bouquet captures honeysuckle blossoms, honeydew melon, pippin and golden delicious apples and combines them with light mineral undertones. The bouquet is lush and seductive; the texture silky and supple. On the palate, the wine is very flavorful yet with good acidy and structure, it never veers towards being "over-the-top, and carries its delicious flavors through the long, elegant and graceful finish. Superb!