You know. The one under a building down an ally where a 60 year old guy is pumping out amazing pasta, family style, with a barrel of purplish wine in the corner.
I found one such place in while visiting in 2001, and a lot of places designed to take my money and serve me mediocre food. Granted, I wasn't much of a chowhound back then.
I'm hoping to do some serious eating in Italy, but I'm scared my experience is going to be limited to the narrow tracks allowed for tourists. Things are not documented like Japan or NYC.