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the tide is high...


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Restaurants & Bars 14

the tide is high...

djk | Jul 29, 2005 12:31 AM

i'm practically queasy at the idea that this place will soon become so jammed that i'll never get to eat there again. a new hidden gem has emerged from all this burning concrete and we may as well celebrate while we ponder the long waits in line to come......but wait we should. Tides on norfolk and delancey street has arrived in all its 22 seat glory. ultra fresh seafood, fried oysters and clams in a batter so delicate and sweet that any possible guilt is immediately waved off and sent packing. skewers of well seasoned shrimp, whole perfectly cooked daurade and pompano, grilled haricot verts that packs a white gloved punch, a corn pudding that counts no points on presentation, just a small pale golden square in the midst of a white melts in your mouth and the taste that lingers after is filled with a velvety essence of sweet summer corn. and yes virginia - there is a lobster roll. beautifully cooked, seasoned with cucumber and dill on the appropriate toasted hot dog bun. each season they plan to add a seasoning/ingredient to sharpen and support the lobsterness of it all. not an imposition, just some fun. i'm a purist and i loved it. if you want to argue the fact - i couldn't be less interested - it was delicious.

the wine list is small - about 3 or 4 bottles of each color. but a beautiful bandol among the other nice choices was a big hit at our table. and the table - oh my. a candle is inset into the top and fills the white frosted edges with light so that they all seem to float. the place couldn't be smaller but what they created was a fun and stylish backdrop for an alumnus of mary's fish camp to cook in and cook beautifully. the ceiling is kind of a mosaic of these teeny bamboo thingies, the lighting is soft and inviting, the bathroom sink has wit. i wish i could say go soon and mean it - i only want anyone to go so that it may flourish but i don't want you all to go if it means that i can't go too. but when you do go - and hopefully enjoy the tiny place with the small but balanced menu and smaller but tasteful wine list and delightful, warm service and attention from the owners/staff - if you like it - don't tell everyone.

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