In this book Michael Steinberger is mourning the death of French Haute Cuisine(not that this is a novel announcement). it seems that he sees the cause of death to be the lack of innovation in the leading french restaurants, which have reverted back to their classic tired methods after the fall of nouvelle cuisine, betrayed 'from within' by Bocuse and his followers who invented the notion of a a globally branded executive chef who is never present in the kitchen. the result is a cuisine that has ceased to explore the boundaries of taste, sending the truly adventurous eater to spain, japan and italy.
I am by no means an expert on this topic. what I am posing as a question to the board is your thought on restaurants in Paris that can be cited as examples and counterexamples for Steinberger's argument. prominent chefs that are engaged in the practice of pushing the boundaries of their profession, and those who are riding on the waves of past glory. I thought creating a catalog with Steinberger's argument as an organizing theme, done by true foodies who actually spend their time and money on fine dining in this city would be worthwhile.