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Thanksgiving in Milano (long)

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Thanksgiving in Milano (long)

Ivan Stoler | Nov 29, 2004 12:13 PM

Just came back from a week in Milano. As this was my first real trip to Italy in 20 years and I'm not well versed in Italian or Italian food it was a fun time. Landed on a Sunday AM and since most places are closed Sunday eve I decided on Pizza. Fabrica Pizzeria @ viale Pasubio 2 is a nice looking place right off Corso Como. Had a Pizza Crudo (tomato, cheese and ham) w/a carafe of house wine all for 13 euros. Not bad, though I would have liked my pizza bit more well done. On this same street there are at least 3 other nice looking pizza restaurants. Their web site is www.lafabbricapizzeria.it. For my last lunch I had pizza @ Fratelli la bufalo on via Palermo 11 (again off Garibaldi but closer to downtown). How could I refuse a place w/this name. Again, there are at least 3 pizza restaurants on this block, so if you don't like the looks of one there's always more. No reservations needed. I liked this pizza bit better. I had beer instead of wine, and that was a mistake. I always forget that Italian beer is 2nd to many. Total cost 13 euros. While walking around Monday getting lost I found the Swine Bar @ via G Ropano 5. The owner was very friendly, and while this isn't a place like El Museo d Jamon in Madrid it is a nice little mod place. 5 or so tables in the rear and a couple seats at the counter. Mostly this place makes Pannini but the owner made me a mixed plate of artisinal ham, bresola,2 types of sausage, (1 pork, and 1 pork w/deer) and some lardo. The reason this place caught my eye was the "slow food' written under the name of the bar. The owner also gave me an extra glass of wine, gratis and offered me some cheese gratis which I had to turn down. All this for 7.50 euros. That night I had dinner @ La Latteria, via San Marco. I had heard a lot 'bout this place, as it was, it's ok. 8 or so tables, no reservations taken, cash only. This isn't a place to linger but it's honest simple cooking. I had a plate of bresola DOC, which doc I forget but it was mighty tasty. Then I made the mistake of ordering a steak, not the thing to do. All the dishes at the other tables looked great. The wine is served by the carafe and comes out of a tap! Total 32.60 euros. Tuesday lunch was street food day, sorbettis and a slice of Parinata, a sort of semolina pie. Interesting. Dinner was the Milano happy hour pub crawl. A plate of pesce crudo w/a glass of sparkling wine at da Claudo (via ponte vetero 16). Pretty good. Then had some more wine and eats @ the ATM bar. The Milano happy hour thing is pretty good, buy a drink and nosh to your hearts delight. ATM, had about 10 different food offerings that were constantly refreshed. The next day I was out on business and had lunch at a roadside trattoria in Brescia, horse steak and gnocchi w/ragu. Gnocchi, ok, horse steak was just another lousy steak. Nothing great but not revolting either. That night, back in Milano, I ate @ La veneta on via G Giusti 14. I had heard somewhere on the web that this was the place for traditonal Veneto food. Had a plate of nice salumis w/a great prosceco, beef?, then what was supposed to be a beef stew w/funghi. Turned out to be a thin grilled steak on sliced potatos w/mushrooms sauted in butter. The mushrooms were great, the beef eh. Had a nice bottle of La Casetta Valpolicella Classico Superior. Then I stumbled to a bar just around the corner from Corso Como and had a nightcap (Morin Calvados) and finally crawled back to my hotel. L'altria Phamacy was another place that has been written about frequently, same hood as Veneta (in Chinatown) on via Rosimini 3. Had the tradional Milanese Cotto (breaded veal cutlet) and a carafe of house red. Ok, not that I expected a cutlet to be great but had to try it when in Milan. Next door was a place specializing in food from Friuli which I didn't get to try, Ostarie Vecjo Friul, looked interesting but never crowded (at least not during th week). My last supper(though not a Passover seder) was @ Osteria Enotecta Etrusco, Corso Garibaldi 117. A nice simple Osteria, just what the doctor ordered. Had tagliatelle w/tomato sauce w/a some great chunks of meat on the bone, I think it might have been deer, as the meat was a redish color(not rare, just redish). The sauce has a bit of licorce flavor to it. MMm, then for the main had ribs of Cingalle, wild boar, mmmm. Had a 1/2 bottle of the house red from Franciacorta (the local stuff) that was drinkable. Total w/a grappa reserva was 38.50 euro and they offered me a lemoncello as a nightcap. Who says the Italins don't drink? A fellow the next table over, turned away the bread and the free preappetizer (semolina balls?) but had a plate of pasta to start, then a main dish of what looked like magret and a whole bottle of red by himself. Damn, if the guy barely weighed 140 pounds and he was at least 5'6". Had lots of sorbettis, too many to remember. All in all ,a nice place for an extended weekend.

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