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Restaurants & Bars 2

Thai House Express, Geary at Larkin, SF

ericf | Apr 4, 200301:53 AM

I don't recall ever seeing a mention of Thai House Express, 901 Larkin at Geary. About two blocks from the much better known Osha Thai Noodle House, I've been going to this place once a week for more than a year, and (obviously) enjoying it quite a bit.

Having a similar format to Osha and the King of Thai Noodle chain, most dishes can be ordered as rice plates for about $5.95, or a la carte for $2 more. Despite having over 100 items on the menu, I've enjoyed most everything that I've ordered. Unusual standouts include the beef jerky appetizer #7 (nuer kem), unbattered, marinated, deep fried strips of flank steak; #18 bamboo shoot salad, a spicy lemon-dressed salad of (i believe) rehydrated dried bamboo shoots (warning: the bamboo has a very musty "funky" flavor, an acquired taste); and #40 Kao Ka Moo, soy stewed pork Chinese style served with garlic sauce and pickled mustard green.

Excellent versions of standards like #80 Gai Ga-Prow, minced chicken with chili and basil; #67 Pad Kee Mow, choice of meat with chili and basil on broad rice noodles; #51 Panang curry, beef in a medium spicy fragrant red curry; #18 Larb, warm ground (choice of) meat salad in a spicy lemon dressing; and #84 Moo Prig King, pork and green beans in a savory chili sauce.

I think it's a little better than Osha, and noticeably better than my experiences at two of the many King of Thai places. It has a reasonably pleasant "express" atmosphere, and is open till 1 am weekdays, 2 am fri and saturday.

I usually end up at Edinburgh Castle Pub down the street. 15 or so brews on draft. I often get take out and eat there with a pint.

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