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Tanjore revisited, Harvard Sq., Cambridge

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Tanjore revisited, Harvard Sq., Cambridge

Limster | Dec 1, 2002 08:51 PM

A competent dosa, warm and crisp, and a slightly softer inner layer wrapped around goobs of potatoes and a scatter of minced lamb. I wished there was more of the meat to balance the softness of the potatoes. In Indian food, I like deep gamey flavors in mutton, here it's a bit milder.

Enjoyed the accompanying snowy coconut chutney, full of shreded coconut for a nice strawy texture. Also present, a light curried sauce with vegetables, lentils being rather prominent.

So critical in Indian cooking, the spice combination was fine and satisfying but there's a certain lightness, complexity and rustic refinement that Tanjore can't conjure up. (I can't put my finger on it, but if you're dying to know what I mean, try Dasaprakash in Santa Clara, CA when you're in that part of the country.)

Ras malai for dessert was very satisfying -- stringy Indian cheese with a mouthfeel slightly reminiscent of buffalo mozzarella. A sprinkling of crushed pistacchios, and lightly spiced and heavily sweetened (evaporated?) milk rounded it off perfectly.

A good marsala tea can be a warm pleasure, where the elegant fragrance of spices mingles with a strong deep brew, a kama sutra of flavors. Tanjore's version of badshah chai (spiced with cinnamon and cardomom) is a little mild for me on both the spice and tea, but quite acceptable nevertheless.

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