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Restaurants & Bars 3

Tacubaya's Shadow Looms Large

K. gerstenberger | May 30, 200411:11 AM

No one has put East Bay tacquerias into a cage match (recently), but the fly weight Tacubaya is coming off the high rope on the likes of other Berkeley establishments. Two visits in the last week have showed the kind of simplicity and attention to detail that makes low food great. Many mentions of menudo sources on the board made this my choice yesterday. A side plate with all the accompaniements in perfect proportion put it over the top. The chili in this dish was perfect. Earlier in the week it was the pork tamal with red mole, and this was so good that my eighteen month old daughter said "nummy nummy", and it was satisfying to my palate as well. On both occasions I had the guacamole and chips bowl that would make any avocado tree happy to give up its fruit. The shredded lettuce that boosts the height of the guacamole at another local establishment was conspicuously absent. Taco plates are small and jammed with flavor. The availability of Tamarind Soda and Mexican Coke put this over the top. Service was right on the level that a tacqueria should be, and food was flying out of the kitchen, sometimes at the same time the customers were leaving the cashier. Tacubaya and Dona Tomas versus all comers in a tag team extravaganza. Sustainably raised meats only. We'll sell you the seat, but you'll only need the edge.

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