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Restaurants & Bars 4

Tacolicious: The Mission by way of the Marina (now in the Mission) [San Francisco]

pane | Nov 30, 201103:36 PM

A weird thing happened on Saturday night when we ended up, unexpectedly, at the new Tacolicious on Valencia. Hold up a mirror close to another mirror and what you see is a weird never-ending glass staircase that isn't an exact reflection of either. The new Tacolicious, a SF-Mex mix that is the Mission as interpreted by the Marina and then brought back to the Mission has that same strange, disorienting effect.

The menu includes the unfortunately named "Marina Girl Salad" (romaine, radish, pepitas, avocado for $10, +$4/$5 for chicken or shrimp) and pomegranate margaritas as well as La Palma tortillas and Rancho Gordo beans. The space is huge and bright, with pretty tile and plenty of room for overflow. The spacious bar serves the full dinner menu as well as an extensive list of custom cocktails.

We sat at the bar at around 8 p.m., after only a few moments wait, though the restaurant was full for our visit. We ordered just bar snacks and drinks--two small plates of chicken enchiladas, a fish taco and drinks. The cocktails were the most successful--I had the Paloma (el jimador, grapefruit and Saint Germaine) and the balance between tart and flowery hit the right happy medium.

The food wasn't as great--the avocado advertised with our enchiladas would be translucent if held up to one of the elegantly spare lighting fixtures; the chicken inside was moist but not flavorful. The taco, at $4, was a small piece of rock cod with a dollop of crema. In comparison, the pescado tacos at Papalote are $9 for two, but a much more generous portion in a less elegant (but still not bare-bones taqueria) setting. It's scene-y, well designed, and a little bland--probably not somewhere I'd come to settle a taco craving, but perhaps worthwhile for a drink and snack.

Full menu: http://tacolicioussf.com/menu

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